I read yesterday of the death of Doug Scott, the great mountaineer. His achievements were stupendous. He was the first Englishman to climb Everest, and on the descent he and Dougal Haston survived a night in an unplanned bivouac, without oxygen. On another occasion, climbing with the legendary Chris Bonnington on the Ogre in the Karakoram, he broke both legs and had to crawl back to Base Camp – perhaps I should add that the accident took place at an altitude of about 23,000 ft and the crawl took 4 days.
He was not just tough and brave, he was also a deeply sincere and caring man. His charity work in Nepal saved many lives and he had a great understanding of the country and its culture.
And Doug Scott taught me a lesson I will never forget. Back in the late 1980’s I flew to Kathmandu for my first ever vacation outside, well, outside anywhere really. I found myself sitting next to a rather rough looking chap, with long hair and a shaggy beard. “Oh Lord,” I thought, “the last of the legendary Kathmandu hippies, just my luck,” and studiously ignored him. When we got to Kathmandu and I was waiting in arrivals – in those days not much more than garden shed – for my luggage, I watched as sack after sack of heavy weight moutaineering equipment was unloaded, each labelled in thick black marker “Doug Scott.”
“Wow,” I thought, “Doug Scott was on my flight,” and turning round I realised who he was: the hippy who had been sitting next to me.
That’s the last time I judge anybody on appearances.